The Pavot Project, Part 2: Fitting, Interfacing, and Other Stuff

A few days ago I introduced my latest project, an attempt at a fully lined, winter-weight Pavot Jacket, and today I’ll discuss my prep details. So I apologize ahead of time if this is boring…but I really loved this kind of post as I was preparing for the project, so hopefully this will help someone else in the future!

So first of all, fitting. Deer and Doe patterns are drafted for a C to D cup, and I’m a B cup, so I knew I would need to make some bust alterations. Also, since I’m making this a coat instead of a jacket, I knew that I would need to make sure I had enough ease to wear my everyday clothing underneath. I started out making muslins, since I wanted to be sure of the fit before plunging my scissors into my beautiful blue wool (another great piece from my mother-in-law). I couldn’t decide if I should cut a size 38 or a size 40 (38 is my usual size on top for this company, but I wanted enough wearing room). I’ll spare you the lumpy muslin pics – I ended up doing a 38 on top and grading down to a 40 at the waist.

I also made two bust alterations: a small bust adjustment and lowering the bust point. I only did a small SBA, again to leave enough wearing ease, but discovered that lowering the bust point was crucial to a good fit. Before that alteration, I had too much fullness right above the bust, but not quite enough where I needed it, which was causing gaping in the front. Here’s a pic of my altered side front:

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It’s a little hard to see, but you may notice that I added a bust point notch – I found that this was extremely helpful when sewing the center front to the side front. I also added a corresponding notch to the center front.

My last alteration was to take in fullness in the back piece. The original pattern piece sort of balloons out towards the center of the back, and I knew that I wouldn’t like that in my wool, so I took out about 3/8″ (so, 3/4″ total). Here’s a pic comparing the original pattern piece (left) with my alteration (right) – I took out a lot of the curve.

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My next big challenge was figuring out how and what to interface. I had three different kinds of interfacing – light weight woven, medium weight woven, and medium weight non-woven, and ended up using all three. I tested them all on a sample of my wool, and wrote where I would use each kind of interfacing right on the sample, so I wouldn’t forget:

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After reading Jen’s coat-making post and perusing the Great Coat Sewalong, I decided to interface all the front pieces with lightweight interfacing, and the back with medium weight woven. I did the facings and hems in non-woven. I also did the top of the sleeve in the medium weight woven to give a little more body to the gathers – I like a poofy sleeve! Lastly, I added some lightweight interfacing to stabilize the pocket seam and medium weight woven in the collar.

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Whew! One more prep detail, then I promise I’ll stop. I spent weeks (literally!) agonizing over whether or not to interline for warmth. It’s suuuper cold this winter, so I really want a coat that will keep me warm! However, since this pattern wasn’t intended to be a coat pattern, I didn’t want to added too much extra bulk. So, I decided to line with flannel-backed satin and not interline. This gives extra warmth without added bulk. I splurged and bought some Kasha from Vogue Fabrics online – and I’m so happy I did! The lining is a perfect coat-weight, and feels great. Here’s a pick of the finished lining before insertion:

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Oh, and speaking of lining, my pattern worked!! So I’ll be doing a tutorial on that when all this is over, just in case folks are interested.

For those of you who stuck with me, you get a little prize – a sneak peak at the finished product! Thanks for reading!

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